The dermocosmetics market - France (2024)

1.2 The global dermocosmetics market

The global beauty market is booming. It is driven in particular by the opening up of new consumer markets in emerging countries.

In the graph below, we can see that growth rates in this market have remained positive since ****, with the exception of ****, when the market fell victim to Covid.

evolution of the global beauty market World, ****-****, in Source: ****

Let's now turn our attention to the dermocosmetics segment, which is a special segment of the global beauty industry.

The weight of this market continues to grow.

In fact, the dermocosmetics market is growing faster than the overall beauty industry.

evolution of the dermocosmetics market World, ****-****, in Source: ****

The graph below shows that, since Covid, the dermocosmetics industry has been booming, with very high growth rates.

Analysis of the dynamism of different geographical areas

To begin with, we can analyze the breakdown of the beauty market by geographic zone below.

Geographical breakdown of the global beauty market World, ****, in Source: ****

We can therefore see that the beauty market is driven in particular by North America and North Asia, which account for almost **% of the market. However, the market is set to evolve. Indeed, the market is set to grow by ...

1.3 The national dermocosmetics market

In order to assess the dermocosmetics market in France, let's analyze the evolution of sales of these products in the distribution channel, pharmacies and parapharmacies, which remain the most important (***).

Evolution of dermocosmetics sales in drugstores and parapharmacies France, ****-****, in millions of euros Source: ****

According to IQVIA, the dermocosmetics market grew by almost **.**% in drugstores and parapharmacies between August **** and August ****.

Let's now look at the breakdown by product category:

Top * classes in the dermocosmetics market France, ****, in millions of euros Source: ****

Let's take a closer look at the laboratories with the highest sales in pharmacies and parapharmacies in August ****.

Top * laboratory sales for women's beauty products France, ****, in millions of euros Source: ****

The leading laboratories remain Avène, owned by Pierre Fabre, and La Roche Posay, ex aequo with Caudalie, owned by l'Oréal.

1.4. Analysis of market leaders

Since ****, the dermocosmetics market in France has remained very dynamic.

This market is driven in particular by two major French groups: :

L'Oréal Pierre Fabre Group

So, to understand this market a little more closely, let's take a look at L'Oréal, which remains one of the sector's leaders, to see how dermocosmetics fits into the various product categories.

L'Oréal and dermocosmetics

At L'Oréal, dermocosmetics will account for nearly *.* billion euros in sales by ****, representing around **.*% of the Group's total sales , as shown in the chart below.

Breakdown of l'Oréal sales by division World, ****, as % of sales Source: ****

We can also see strong growth in the cosmetic beauty sector within the various divisions since ****, demonstrating the boom in this sector.

Evolution of the share of cosmetic beauty in L'Oréal's divisions World, ****, in Source: ****

In addition, dermatological beauty is playing an increasingly important role within major companies such as Pierre Fabre, where dermo-cosmetics play a major role.

Weight of dermocosmetics within Pierre Fabre France, ****, as % of sales Source: ****

Finally, we can analyze the breakdown of sales by product category.

Breakdown of L'Oréal sales by product category World, ****, as % of sales Source: ****

Skin care, sun care and hair ...

2.1 Company trends

L'interest in dermocosmetic products continues to grow, driven by several structural trends:

Consumers' quest for health and safety. Therise of aesthetic procedures through the use of dermocosmetic products prescribed by dermatologists.

on a global scale, as mentioned above, new consumer groups are emerging.

on a national scale, we are witnessing a number of phenomena, such as :

An ageing population

evolution and projection of the proportion of the population over ** in France France, ****-****, in % Source: ****

This aging of the population inevitably leads to a structural increase in skin problems among the French.

In fact, one in two boomers has a dermatosis problem, compared to one in four of the general population.

Growing awareness of the importance of health

The population is increasingly wary of the composition of certain products contained in beauty products, such as parabens. As a result, the primary reason for using cosmetics remains to preserve body and health.

Reasons for using cosmetics France, ****, in % Source: ****

But more and more French people want to take care of their skin, as the graph below shows.

Number of French people who use sunscreen France, ****, in Source: ****

Ecological awareness

A final factor explaining the growing emergence of dermocosmetics is people's growing awareness ...

2.2. Skin problems

The boom in the emergence of dermocosmetics also stems from the fact that skin problems are a reality for the French.

Skin diseases rank *th worldwide among diseases recognized as affecting the quality of life of sufferers.

Below, we can see the different skin problems of the French and the number of people affected by skin problems. Nearly *.* million suffer from acne, and a further *.* million from eczema.

People affected by skin problems in France France, ****, in millions of people Source: ****

Skin diseases affect women as much as men, with a slightly higher prevalence among women (***), as shown in the graph below.

Prevalence of skin diseases between women and men in France France, ****, in Source: ****

These skin conditions have a significant impact on the physical, psychological and social health of French people, who are therefore keen to consume the right cosmetics to reduce or conceal their skin conditions, hence the turn towards dermo-cosmetics.

Below, we can see the importance the French attach to their skin.

Importance the French attach to their skin France, ****, in Source: ****

So, nearly **% of French people are concerned about protecting and caring for their skin.

Now, let's analyze how much the French appreciate their skin.

French people's ...

2.3. Sociological analysis of dermocosmetics consumers

Let's analyze the sociological profile of French women who have purchased cosmetics or organic products.

Firstly, women make up the majority of dermocosmetics consumers. However, there has been an increase in the number of men in this segment. They are becoming increasingly attentive to skin care and appearance, adopting dermocosmetic products as shown in the graph below.

evolution of the global men's cosmetics market World, ****-****, in millions of euros Source: ****

Let's take a closer look at the age groups concerned by cosmetics consumption.

Age analysis of female cosmetics consumers France, ****, in Source: ****

In addition, we note that there are real social disparities in the consumption of cosmetics and therefore dermocosmetics. Indeed, dermocosmetics are often more expensive than conventional cosmetics and are therefore predominantly consumed by the affluent classes and therefore executives as shown in the graph below. They are prepared to spend more, but to invest in products they consider effective and safe. conversely, the more modest classes turn to more affordable alternatives, or on a less regular basis.

Analysis of the socio-professional category of cosmetics consumers France, ****, in Source: ****

2.4. France's favorite brands

Below, we take a look at France's favorite face and body care brands.

The French's favorite face and body care brands France, ****, in Source: ****

In the Top *, we find Nivea, from the German Beiersdof group, closely followed by brands belonging to the L'Oréal group with Ambre Solaire, La Roche Posay, L'Oréal Paris, Skin Active and Vichy. The L'Oréal group has a strong position in the face and body care market, with nearly five brands.

There is also a gendered prevalence for these products, with women much more likely to like them than men.

Analysis of French people's favorite face and body care brands by gender France, ****, in Source: ****

Let's now analyze the top * quality brands for the French in ****.

Top * quality face and body care brands in **** France, ****, in Source: ****

The top three brands are produced by the two biggest French groups: Pierre Fabre with Avène, and L'Oréal with La Roche Posay and l'Oréal Paris.

Similarly, these brands are also on the podium of the most innovative brands for the French in ****, according to the chart below:

Top * most innovative hair and body care brands for the French France, ****, in Source: ****

3.1 Dermo-cosmetics value chain

Source: ****

Let's take a look at the entire dermocosmetics value chain, which enables us to offer consumers ever more innovative and effective products:

Research & Development

This stage is undoubtedly the most important for laboratories and beauty professionals. It enables companies to develop unique formulas to better target consumers' needs, and to offer them products that are ever safer, more effective and more respectful of their skin. Numerous resources are deployed, including substantial budgets, as we shall see in section *.*.

*. Design

All research is finally transformed into concrete products. This phase calls for collaboration between laboratories, designers and engineers, in order to maintain efficiency and visual appeal, particularly with packaging.

*. Sourcing

In the dermocosmetics industry, sourcing plays a key role, providing consumers with the guarantee of complete transparency and certifying the use of sustainable products and ingredients that contribute to the protection of biodiversity and natural resources, which are increasingly important to consumers.

*. Factories and logistics centers

The products are then manufactured in factories and processed on a large scale. Then logistics come into play, managing the distribution of products to the various points of sale. it's worth noting that efficient transport and storage play a crucial role in ...

3.2. Distribution channels

There are several distribution channels in the cosmetics market.

Breakdown of cosmetics distribution channels France, ****, in Source: ****

However, this breakdown cannot be entirely attributed to the specificdermocosmetics segment, as the logic behind it is not exactly the same. In fact, dermocosmetics are partly medical products, so it is necessary for consumers to benefit from advice from health professionals during their purchases, hence the tendency to lean more towards pharmacies than supermarkets.

Focus on pharmacies and parapharmacies

Pharmacies and parapharmacies remain the primary channel . These are the traditional and most important points of sale. They enable customers to benefit from advice from health professionals, which reassures them in their purchasing choices, as shown in the chart below.

Main advantages of buying cosmetics in pharmacies France, ****, in Source: ****

What's more, the French are also turning to another distribution channel, e-pharmacies, which enable a larger proportion of the French population to access and consume dermocosmetic products thanks to lower prices, as shown in the graph below, and a wider range.

Advantages for the French of using parapharmacies France, ****, in Source: ****

3.3. importance of digitalization

The importance of social networks

Social networks are a vector for the purchase and consumption of dermocosmetic products. In fact, nearly **% of French people have already bought and used a dermocosmetic product used and recommended by an influencer on social networks. [***]

Product influencer content on social networks undeniably helps consumers understand how to better care for their skin through beauty gestures as well as skincare routines.

In this way, the Instagram accounts of dermo-cosmetic brands are a veritable gold mine for brands, enabling them to develop their influence and thus the consumption of their products. Dermo-cosmetics brands have millions of followers on social networks, like La Roche Posay, which has almost *.* million followers on Instagram.

Number of followers on Instagram for various dermo-cosmetics brands France, ****, in millions of followers Source: ****

In addition, there are numerous videos on Youtube and other social networking platforms on the theme of "skincare", encouraging new segments of the population to consume an even wider range of products.

In another way, digitalization is enabling dermato-cosmetics companies to innovate by offering to improve their patients' problems.

For example, the Pierre Fabre laboratory has made IT*Good available to its patients and consumers. In this project, nearly *,*** pharmacists and ...

4.1. Offer typology

The dermocosmetics product offering is divided between several major players, which can be divided into three categories:

Industry tycoons: these include major beauty and dermatological groups such as Pierre Fabre and L'Oréal, Estée Lauder... Other key players in the market: these include all the major brands specialized in dermocosmetics, offering products tailored to consumers' needs, such as Nuxe, Caudalie, La Rosée... Start-ups or new market entrants: Biosalines, Mimétiques, Respire...

The top ** companies in the dermocosmetics market (***) together hold **.*% of the market in value terms, suggesting opportunities for consolidation and synergies between players. [***]

Having seen who the main players are, we can further segment the types of offers by categories for dermocosmetic products broken down in the table below:

4.2. Pricing

The table below shows the pricing of the various dermocosmetics products by category:

4.3. Supply trends

Dermo-cosmetics offers are constantly evolving, thanks to innovation.

Indeed, every major group relies on innovation to produce and offer revolutionary new products to its consumers.

Take Pierre Fabre, for example, and the number of patents filed in the dermocosmetics field, with the statistics listed below.

Number of patents filed by Pierre Fabre France, ****, in numbers Source: ****

The Pierre Fabre Group is investing heavily in dermocosmetics, with a budget of nearly ** million euros in ****. pierre Fabre' s strategy is to leverage its two divisions, dermocosmetics and pharmaceuticals, to build bridges between the two businesses, notably through research.

Breakdown of the Pierre Fabre Group's R&D budget France, ****, in millions of euros Source: ****

Innovation is at the very heart of dermocosmetics development. Brands are investing heavily in research and development to offer even more effective products and optimize application methods, maximizing the absorption and efficacy of active ingredients.

R&D budget spent by major dermocosmetics groups World, ****, in millions of euros Source: ****

What's more, in line with consumer demand and the trend towards"conscious beauty", brands are obliged to update their ranges with more environmentally-friendly ingredients from sustainable sources, to limit the use of controversial ingredients, and to make efforts on packaging too, ...

5.1. Regulations governing dermocosmetic products

Definition of cosmetic products

According to European regulation (***) n°****/****, a cosmetic product is defined by three cumulative criteria:

Its form: it can only be a substance or a mixture of substances; Its area of application : the product must be intended to be placed in contact with the superficial parts of the human body (***) or with the teeth and oral mucosa. Purpose: the product is applied mainly or exclusively to clean, perfume, modify the appearance of, protect or maintain in good condition these parts of the human body, or to correct body odors.

Cosmetic product safety

Obligations applicable to cosmetic products aim to ensure that products placed on the market in the European Union are safe for human health, under normal or reasonably foreseeable conditions of use:

in terms of composition: certain substances are subject to restrictions, or even banned altogether (***). To be used, colorants, preservatives and UV filters must belong to lists defining authorized substances and their conditions of use. Finally, the formulation of each product must have undergone a toxicological safety assessment; labelling: in addition to a list of ingredients and precautions for use, labelling must include a batch number, an expiry date or a period of use after opening, ...

6.1 Segmentation

• Beiersdorf
• La Roche-Posay
• Nuxe
• Estée Lauder
• Too fruit
• Sephora
• Lucette (Hivency)
• Marionnaud France
• AS Watson
• La Crème Libre
• NAOS Bioderma
• Caudalie
• Pierre Fabre
• Galderma
• Groupe Rocher (Yves Rocher)
• Clarins Groupe
• Ieva Group
• A Derma (Pierre Fabre Groupe)
• Cible Skin
• Uriage (Puig Groupe)
• Sanex (Colgate-Palmolive)
• Klorane (Pierre Fabre Dermocasmétique)
• Laboratoire Native- Alès Groupe (marques Phyto, Lierac, Roger & Gallet, Jowae)
• Lierac (Laboratoire Native)
• Mixa (L'Oréal))
• Nivea (Beiersdorf)
• Topicrem - Mayoly Spindler
• Roger&Gallet (Laboratoire Native)
• Z&MA
• Institut Esthederm (Naos)
• Galénic
• Codexial Dermatologie
• Eucerin
• Ducray
• Noreva
• Embryolisse
• SVR Laboratoires
• Grown Alchemist (L'Occitane Groupe)
• BeauTerra
• Havea Group
• Havea Groupe Biolane
• Biocodex
• Dr Pierre Ricaud (Rocher Groupe)
• Alvadiem
• Olala cosmetics - EQAM
• Expanscience
• RoC Skincare
• Novexpert