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Summary of our market study
The French dermocosmetics market is valued at around €2 billion.
The global dermocosmetics market is valued at over $75 billion. Asian demand is strong.
The dermo-cosmetics market encompasses beauty products designed to treat specific skin and hair conditions.
Aging populations, men's increased interest in skincare and the growing popularity of organic and ethical products are boosting the market.
Consumer demand for organic and ethical products has risen sharply in the sector. A considerable percentage of French women have adopted organic cosmetics, and consumers are increasingly concerned about the authenticity and naturalness of these products.
The main players in the dermo-cosmetics market
- L'Oréal and its Cosmétique Active division
- Pierre Fabre: inventor of the dermo-cosmetics concept, with renowned brands such as Avène and Ducray.
- Johnson & Johnson: enters the dermo-cosmetics market
- Beiersdorf: expands its portfolio with dermo-cosmetic brands such as Eucerin.
to understand this market
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Summary and extracts
1 Market summary
1.1 Definition and scope of study
Dermatology is a branch of medicine that treats skin pathologies, while cosmetics encompass products for the hygiene and beautification of skin and hair, with rather superficial actions.
Dermocosmetics therefore refers to products that meet both cosmetic and dermatological needs. the term covers products that combine health and beauty, and are subject to the same manufacturing standards and rigorous controls as medicines, unlike ordinary cosmetics. They are also distinguished from other products by their in-depth action on the dermis, the inner layer beneath the epidermis, thanks to finer molecules that penetrate deeper into skin cells.
Dermocosmetics products are essentially designed for all those suffering from skin pathologies, which affect some 16 million people in France.
As early as the 1970s, the French laboratory Pierre Fabre was working on skin physiology, and thus began to combine cosmetics and dermatology, working in particular on photoprotection, skin aging and microbiota.
However, it will be 2020 before the dermocosmetics market really takes off. Indeed, in the wake of the health crisis, consumers have increasingly high expectations of health-related products and services. They want to take care of themselves, age well, protect themselves from urban pollution or the sun, and it's for this reason in particular that they're turning to the dermocosmetics market.
In France, the dermocosmetics market is particularly dynamic, driven by the dynamism of its distribution channels. Indeed, the "white coat effect" and pharmacies reassure consumers and enable them to give health advice to their customers.
on a global scale, the dermocosmetics market, like that of cosmetics, is particularly dynamic. It is driven in particular by new consumer segments in emerging countries such as the Middle East and South-East Asia.
on a national scale, the market can be segmented into :
- major French beauty groups or laboratories with specialized dermocosmetics divisions, such as Pierre Fabre or L'Oréal Beauté Dermatologique .
- Major French beauty players developing a range of dermocosmetic products: Nuxe, Caudalie, Clarins...
- New entrants trying to innovate in their turn
Finally, the dermocosmetics market is above all a market of innovation, in whichsignificant resources are dedicated to Research & Development, enabling the product range to be constantly renewed, responding even more precisely to consumer needs: between transparency, targeted efficacy and durability.
1.2 The global dermocosmetics market
The global beauty market is booming. It is driven in particular by the opening up of new consumer markets in emerging countries.
In the graph below, we can see that growth rates in this market have remained positive since ****, with the exception of ****, when the market fell victim to Covid.
evolution ...
1.3 The national dermocosmetics market
In order to assess the dermocosmetics market in France, let's analyze the evolution of sales of these products in the distribution channel, pharmacies and parapharmacies, which remain the most important (***).
Evolution of dermocosmetics sales in drugstores and parapharmacies France, ****-****, in millions of euros Source: ****
According to IQVIA, the dermocosmetics market ...
1.4. Analysis of market leaders
Since ****, the dermocosmetics market in France has remained very dynamic.
This market is driven in particular by two major French groups: :
L'Oréal Pierre Fabre Group
So, to understand this market a little more closely, let's take a look at L'Oréal, which remains one of the sector's leaders, to see ...
2 Demand analysis
2.1 Company trends
L'interest in dermocosmetic products continues to grow, driven by several structural trends:
Consumers' quest for health and safety. Therise of aesthetic procedures through the use of dermocosmetic products prescribed by dermatologists.
on a global scale, as mentioned above, new consumer groups are emerging.
on a national scale, we are witnessing a ...
2.2. Skin problems
The boom in the emergence of dermocosmetics also stems from the fact that skin problems are a reality for the French.
Skin diseases rank *th worldwide among diseases recognized as affecting the quality of life of sufferers.
Below, we can see the different skin problems of the French and the number ...
2.3. Sociological analysis of dermocosmetics consumers
Let's analyze the sociological profile of French women who have purchased cosmetics or organic products.
Firstly, women make up the majority of dermocosmetics consumers. However, there has been an increase in the number of men in this segment. They are becoming increasingly attentive to skin care and appearance, adopting dermocosmetic products ...
2.4. France's favorite brands
Below, we take a look at France's favorite face and body care brands.
The French's favorite face and body care brands France, ****, in Source: ****
In the Top *, we find Nivea, from the German Beiersdof group, closely followed by brands belonging to the L'Oréal group with Ambre Solaire, La Roche Posay, ...
3 Market structure
3.1 Dermo-cosmetics value chain
Source: ****
Let's take a look at the entire dermocosmetics value chain, which enables us to offer consumers ever more innovative and effective products:
Research & Development
This stage is undoubtedly the most important for laboratories and beauty professionals. It enables companies to develop unique formulas to better target consumers' needs, and to ...
3.2. Distribution channels
There are several distribution channels in the cosmetics market.
Breakdown of cosmetics distribution channels France, ****, in Source: ****
However, this breakdown cannot be entirely attributed to the specificdermocosmetics segment, as the logic behind it is not exactly the same. In fact, dermocosmetics are partly medical products, so it is necessary for consumers ...
3.3. importance of digitalization
The importance of social networks
Social networks are a vector for the purchase and consumption of dermocosmetic products. In fact, nearly **% of French people have already bought and used a dermocosmetic product used and recommended by an influencer on social networks. [***]
Product influencer content on social networks undeniably helps consumers understand ...
4 Offer analysis
4.1. Offer typology
The dermocosmetics product offering is divided between several major players, which can be divided into three categories:
Industry tycoons: these include major beauty and dermatological groups such as Pierre Fabre and L'Oréal, Estée Lauder... Other key players in the market: these include all the major brands specialized in dermocosmetics, ...
4.2. Pricing
The table below shows the pricing of the various dermocosmetics products by category:
4.3. Supply trends
Dermo-cosmetics offers are constantly evolving, thanks to innovation.
Indeed, every major group relies on innovation to produce and offer revolutionary new products to its consumers.
Take Pierre Fabre, for example, and the number of patents filed in the dermocosmetics field, with the statistics listed below.
Number of patents filed by Pierre ...
5 Rules and regulations
5.1. Regulations governing dermocosmetic products
Definition of cosmetic products
According to European regulation (***) n°****/****, a cosmetic product is defined by three cumulative criteria:
Its form: it can only be a substance or a mixture of substances; Its area of application : the product must be intended to be placed in contact with the superficial parts of the ...
6 Positioning the players
6.1 Segmentation
- Beiersdorf
- La Roche-Posay
- Nuxe
- Estée Lauder
- Too fruit
- Sephora
- Lucette (Hivency)
- Marionnaud France
- AS Watson
- La Crème Libre
- NAOS Bioderma
- Caudalie
- Pierre Fabre
- Galderma
- Groupe Rocher (Yves Rocher)
- Clarins Groupe
- Ieva Group
- A Derma (Pierre Fabre Groupe)
- Cible Skin
- Uriage (Puig Groupe)
- Sanex (Colgate-Palmolive)
- Klorane (Pierre Fabre Dermocasmétique)
- Laboratoire Native- Alès Groupe (marques Phyto, Lierac, Roger & Gallet, Jowae)
- Lierac (Laboratoire Native)
- Mixa (L'Oréal))
- Nivea (Beiersdorf)
- Topicrem - Mayoly Spindler
- Roger&Gallet (Laboratoire Native)
- Z&MA
- Institut Esthederm (Naos)
- Galénic
- Codexial Dermatologie
- Eucerin
- Ducray
- Noreva
- Embryolisse
- SVR Laboratoires
- Grown Alchemist (L'Occitane Groupe)
- BeauTerra
- Havea Group
- Havea Groupe Biolane
- Biocodex
- Dr Pierre Ricaud (Rocher Groupe)
- Alvadiem
- Olala cosmetics - EQAM
- Expanscience
- RoC Skincare
List of charts presented in this market study
- Trends in the global beauty market
- Dermocosmetics market trends
- Geographical breakdown of the global beauty market
- Number of consumers between 2022 and 2030
- Leading global players in beauty sector sales
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Latest news
Havea launches the biggest recruitment campaign in its history - 01/10/2024
Pierre Fabre sells its immuno-oncology research center - 02/09/2024
- - The Pierre Fabre Group has entered into exclusive negotiations to sell its Saint-Julien-en-Genevois R&D center to pharmaceutical subcontractor Jubilant Biosys.
- - The center employs 35 people.
- - The center was set up in 1990 and specializes in immuno-oncology, notably in the development of monoclonal or conjugated antibodies and immunomodulating biologics.
- - Jubilant Biosys, which employs 2,300 people in India, Italy and the USA, carries out contract R&D for pharmaceutical groups.
- - The site also included a 45-strong monoclonal antibody clinical batch production unit, which was sold in 2020 to subcontractor Fareva, and later to GTP Bioways, acquired by Italy's Olon.
- - Pierre Fabre is discontinuing immuno-oncology research to focus on targeted cancer therapies, with an oncology R&D budget of 100 million euros per year and revenues of 500 million euros.
- - The group has transferred all its research to the Toulouse Oncopôle, which employs 650 people, with 40 new hires in 2023 and 30 planned for 2024.
- - Pierre Fabre's sales in 2023 will be 2.83 billion euros, up 6%, with 57% generated in dermocosmetics.
Sephora downsizes in China after leaving South Korea - 22/08/2024
- - Sephora is shedding "just under 3%" of its workforce in China, or around 100 jobs.
- - Sephora has around 400 stores in Asia, including 300 in China.
- - Founded in 1968 and acquired by LVMH in 1997, Sephora set up in Beijing in 2005.
- - Sephora is the number one retailer of high-end beauty products in the United States.
- - The company is targeting sales of "20 billion euros".
- - Sephora's operations in China would have generated combined losses over 2022 and 2023 of $46 million, according to annual reports from Shanghai Jahwa United Co. Ltd. which holds 19% of its business on the mainland.
- - Sephora recently reduced its presence in South Korea and withdrew from Taiwan.
- - The brand is a significant contributor to LVMH sales, second only to Louis Vuitton (over 20 billion in sales).
- - Sephora has estimated sales of over $12 billion, according to Bernstein.
Ten years after its exit, L'Oréal re-acquires a stake in Galderma - 06/08/2024
- - In early 2014, L'Oréal sold its 50% stake in Galderma to Nestlé.
- - Galderma achieved its biggest IPO on the Zurich Stock Exchange since 2017, with a capitalization of 17 billion euros.
- - Galderma's sales have risen from 1.6 billion euros in 2014 to 4.1 billion euros in 2024.
- - L'Oréal's investment to acquire 10% of Galderma's capital would amount to 1.7 billion euros.
- - In 2019, Galderma is acquired by a consortium led by the Swedish fund EQT and a subsidiary of the sovereign wealth fund Abu Dhabi Investment Authority for 9.3 billion euros.
L'Oréal launches into injectable aesthetics by investing in Swiss company Galderma - 06/08/2024
- - L'Oréal stake in Galderma: 10%
- - Share of Galderma's worldwide sales generated by injectable aesthetics: 50%
- - Galderma sales growth in one year: 8.5
- - Injectable aesthetics market: strong growth
Beiersdorf opens new logistics center in southern Germany - 15/07/2024
- Beiersdorf, owner of the Nivea skincare brand, is planning to invest 200 million euros in the new platform
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the dermocosmetics market | France
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