The sun cream market - France (2023)

1.2 A growing market worldwide

By ****, the global sunscreen market is estimated to be worth around $* billion. This market appears very dynamic, and is expected to grow at a CAGR of *.*% over the period ****-****, reaching $**.** billion .

Global sunscreen market World, ****-****, in billions of dollars Source: ****

This growth can be explained by the fact that people are increasingly aware of the dangers to their skin of overexposure to the sun. This can have a number of consequences of varying severity, from premature skin ageing to diseases such as melanoma. In line with this widespread awareness, it seems logical that forecasts for the global market are on the rise.

However, the Covid-** crisis has somewhat slowed the pace of growth forecast for the ****-**** period. For example, by the end of March ****, sales in the USA had fallen by **% compared with ****, while demand in many parts of the world remained unchanged from forecasts. Indeed, the pandemic has both imposed an indoor lifestyle on populations with confinements, and postponed holiday stays, thus reducing households' need for sunscreens.

Americans are the world's leading consumers of sunscreen, with consumption of **.* million liters in ****, for example.[***]

1.3 Domestic market

While the market has long enjoyed steady growth in recent years, the years **** and **** have been more complicated. Indeed, French sales of suncare products fell from ***.** million euros in **** to ***.** million euros in ****, due in particular to a drop of around -*.*% in the value of sales of suncare products in supermarkets and hypermarkets, and of -**.*% in sales volume . while suncare brands expected to return to their **** sales levels in ****, this was not the case. On the contrary, sales are estimated at ***.** million euros in ****, down -*. *% on ****.

Sales of suncare products in supermarkets France, ****-****, in millions of euros Source: ****

Thanks to the breakdown of sales between the different distribution channels estimated by Pharma Magazine, in which sales in supermarkets represent only **% of total sales, we can thus estimate the national market at ***.** million euros in ****.

***.** x ***% / **% = ***.** million euros

National market development since ****

Today,pharmacies and parapharmacies account for over half of all sales of suncare products. What's more, for an equivalent product, sun cream often costs a few euros more in pharmacies. The rest is sold online, in supermarkets, brand boutiques and perfumeries.

However, according to the Fédération des pharmaciens de France, sales of sun ...

1.4 Suncare products put to the test by falling tourist numbers

While the longer-term trend seems to be better, sales of suncare products in France really eroded in the Covid-** year, at least in pharmacies.

In fact, between June **** and May ****, the French market declined by **% in value and volume.

Sales of suncare products in pharmacies France, ****-****, base *** Source: ****

Indeed, as the pandemic has made visits abroad more difficult, visitors have decided to postpone or cancel their stays originally scheduled for ****.

Number of foreign visitors France, ****-****, in millions Source: ****

Between **** and ****, France has lost more than **% of its foreign visitor numbers, and therefore of its domestic consumption potential. While all sectors are affected, this decline in international tourism can also explain a drop in sales of suncare products.

However, the number of international arrivals has been rising again over the past * years(***), which is promising for the suncare market.

2.1 Protection factor, a key consumer choice criterion

Sunscreen protection indices are calculated according to an application standard of *mg per cm² ofskin. The different protection indices are as follows:

YouGov conducted a study in June **** on a sample of *,*** French adults, to shed light on the relationship between the French and sunscreen.

The survey revealed that the most important criterion for choosing a sun protection product is its effectiveness (***).

Sunscreen purchasing criteria France, ****, % (***) Source: ****

Similarly, in ****, of the **% of French people who use sunscreen to protect themselves from the sun, **% use protection higher than **, including **% with protection higher than **. Sunscreen use by protection factor France, ****, in Source : YouGov There is a general trend among French consumers towards increasingly favoring sun creams with high protection indexes.

This trend has already been in place for several years. In fact, sunscreens with a low or medium protection factor were the only two product categories to show a steady decline over the period ****-****, while consumption of creams with a very high protection factormes with a very high protection factor, i.e. over **, increased over the same period, from *.* million consumers to **.* million.

2.2 Other criteria for choosing suncare products

Types of suncare products :

Distribution of suncare products France, ****, as % of total LSA, IRI

Brand:

Most popular suncare brands France, ****, in Source: ****

Among sunscreen brands, Nivea will clearly stand out from the rest in ****. Avène and La Roche-Posay are very close in terms of consumption choices, while a second divide can be seen with the other brands (***).

Ecological impact:

Positioning with regard to a product's non-environmentally-friendly composition France, ****, in % Source: ****

In ****, only *% of French people would point to a product's eco-friendly composition as a criterion in its own right when choosing a sunscreen. On the other hand, **% would be ready to change their sunscreen if they discovered that its composition was not environmentally-friendly. What's more, **% cite the negative impact on the environment as a major disadvantage of self-tanning products.

Ecological impact will therefore become an increasingly important criterion when choosing suncare products. In section *.*, we describe the initiatives taken by suncare brands to respond to this trend.

2.3 Different consumption patterns for different profiles

Profile of French people who use sun protection France, ****, in Source: ****

Share of **-** year-olds in the population using sun protection only in spring and summer France, ****, in % Source: ****

Population using sun protection all or most of the year France, ****, in % Source: ****

A distinction in sunscreen consumption behavior can be observed at several levels in France. These include whether or not sun protection products are used, the frequency with which these products are used, and people's preoccupation with sun spots.

In the same YouGov survey cited above, **% of French people use sun protection products for their face or body . Among them, **% of French people use it for the body, versus **% for the face.

Gender

**% of French people using sunscreen for the body are women, and **% for face protection products.

Also, **% of French people concerned about sunspots are women.

Age

Among French people using body protection, **% are over **, and among those using face protection, **% are over ** .

Also, **% of French people concerned about sun spots are aged ** or over .

On the one hand, among those using body or face cream only during the spring and summer periods, **% and **% respectively are between ** and ** years of age. On the other hand, among those using ...

2.4 A product whose demand remains highly seasonal

Interest in "sun cream" research France, ****-****, base *** Source: ****

The graph above represents the proportion of searches for a given keyword in a given region and for a specific period, in relation to the time when the usage rate for this keyword was highest (***). Thus, a value of ** means that the keyword was used less often in France, and a value of * means that the data for this keyword is insufficient.

Over the past floating year, there has been a strong seasonal pattern in demand for these products, with a peak at the end of May. This sharp rise in demand corresponds to preparations for the summer vacations, which take place a few weeks later and are often synonymous with exposure to the sun. It therefore seems logical that demand should be concentrated at this time of year.

According to LSA, **% of sales of these products take place in July and August .

Over the past year, there has been a relative absence of peaks in February, the period corresponding to winter sports vacations. As the successive periods of confinement have really taken their toll on high-altitude tourism, the consumption of suncare products has also been strongly impacted.

2.5 Organic sun creams

Filters, the main component of sunscreens, are the biggest difference between "traditional" and organic sunscreens. In the case of traditional creams, filters are derived from petrochemicals and are therefore synthetic. Organic filters, on the other hand, are produced from minerals, making them so-called natural filters. They act by reflecting the sun onto the skin, thus preventing UV rays from penetrating the epidermis[***].

Note that certain ingredients, such as petrochemicals (***), parabens, synthetic preservatives, synthetic fragrances, GMOs and endocrine disruptors, are also excluded from the composition of organic sun creams because of their harmfulness to health and the environment. Nor do they contain nanoparticles larger than *** nanometers, to prevent pollution of the seas and oceans. This means that an organic sunscreen does not guarantee the absence of nanoparticles in its composition.

Have you ever used organic or natural sun protection products? France, ****, % Source: ****

In ****, **% of women who consumed sunscreens said they were currently using organic sunscreens, while **% had already used these products without continuing to use them. Women are the main consumers of organic products, including sun creams.

In addition to organic products in the true sense of the word, this trend is transforming the way suncare products are consumed across all segments ...

2.6 Sunscreens for children

According to Naître et Grandir, the criteria for choosing sun cream for children are as follows:

a broad-spectrum sunscreen, i.e. one that protects against both UVA and UVB rays; a sun protection factor (***) greater than or equal to **; cream sunscreens should be preferred to sprays and sprays, to ensure better application to the skin and therefore stronger protection.

3.1 Key market players

The main companies in the French sunscreen market, across all distribution channels, are as follows:

Avène ; Biafine ; La Roche-Posay ; Bepanthen ; Vichy ; L'Oréal Groupe ; Pierre Fabre Laboratoires ; Beiersdorf AG ; Bioderma.

3.2 Production processes and product composition

The production process for a sunscreen can be long and costly, since the development of a new product can take up to ** years, and require * years of research for *** tests, according to Beauté.fr.

This is due to the difficulty of finding the right balance between the various components, often numerous, in order to obtain the desired characteristics and degree of protection.

Before any sunscreen is put on the market, tests are carried out to measure its efficacy and quantify its level of protection. Two test options are currently recommended:

In Vivo method ISO ***** and ISO *****, with tests carried out on volunteer individuals placed under a UV lamp after applying the product to their backs. The skin's reaction time to UV light is then measured; In Vivo method ISO *****, with tests carried out using machines only. The principle is identical, except that the creams are not applied to individuals, but to transparent plates.

It should be noted that the second test method can only be used with sunscreens containing mineral filters, according to CosmeBio, and is currently under review by ISO.

When creating a sunscreen lotion, it's a good idea to avoid certain substances deemed dangerous and toxic, such as :

Butylated ...

3.3 The different distribution channels

Sales of suncare products are still largely concentrated in pharmacies and parapharmacies, which will account for over half of total sales in **** . GMS (***), e-commerce, brand boutiques and perfumeries are among the other main distribution channels. In France, online sales have grown significantly in recent years,accounting for **% of the total market in **** [***]. Exact figures are not given for the share of sales in supermarkets or perfumeries. We will therefore focus on **** data on the breakdown of purchases by distribution channel.

The dominance of pharmacies and parapharmacies can, in part, be explained by the professional recommendations available to individuals at these points of purchase: around a third of French sun cream consumers seek advice from a pharmacist or parapharmacist when making their purchase. The fact that certain brands are only distributed in pharmacies and parapharmacies is a second reason for the predominance of this distribution channel, according to Arcane Research.

It should be noted that while pharmacies and parapharmacies dominate the purchase of suncare products in terms of sales, this dominance is much less clear-cut when it comes to volume.

Place of purchase of suncare products by distribution channel France, ****, % of sales Source: ****

It's important to note here that the answers given ...

4.1 The price of sunscreens

Price study of a few sun care references.

Prices at **/**/**** on doctipharma.fr

4.2 Innovative supply trends

Sunscreen consumers have developed increasingly specific expectations over the years. In particular, they are often looking for products that are easy to apply and leave no white marks. They also expect the cream not to run in the heat. As a result, brands are producing increasingly sophisticated products to meet all these expectations, according to Prime Beauté.

Ease of application

One of the main obstacles to the purchase of suncare products is their greasy, sticky appearance, which makes them unpleasant to apply and reduces the frequency of product application, thus preventing optimal protection. That's why, starting in ****, laboratories and brands have begun to develop more and more products in the form of solar mist or water.

Areas sensitive to chemicals and the sun

Another barrier to the consumption of suncare products concerns the eye area. Many consumers do not protect this very fragile area (***) for fear of getting sun cream in their eyes. To remedy this situation, La Roche-Posay has developed a minimalist face cream, containing ** fewer ingredients than their previous face cream, but guaranteeing high protection. The cream,Anthelios Ultra Crème SPF **+ Innovation Yeux Sensibles, forms a second-skin layer on the skin, which does not move and therefore does ...

4.3 New offers to address the impact of sunscreens on the oceans

According to the Fondation pour la Nature et l'Homme, around **,*** tonnes of sunscreen are dumped into the oceans every year, equivalent to ** liters per minute worldwide.

A study by the French health agencyAnses (***) has confirmed the harmful effects of the chemicals used in sunscreens on coral reefs. It specifically highlights the threat posed by * UV filters: oxybenzone, octinoxate and octocrylene. It warns that "the presence of one of these substances [***]

New market trends include a growing number of product launches focusing on respect for the environment. The eco-designed milks introduced to the market in **** by Garnier's Ambre solaire have met with some success, and the brand has taken a further step in **** by adopting packaging made entirely from recycled and recyclable plastic[***].

5.1 Regulations

General regulations

All products designed to protect against the sun in Europe must comply with the same regulations, namely EC Regulation Nº****/****, which applies to all cosmetic products. Annex * refers in particular to the filters permitted in the composition of products, as well as the authorized dose. In December ****, ** different filters are currently authorized, but it should be noted that this list is regularly modified.

Rules concerning the labeling of sunscreens must also be observed, depending on the sun protection factor. As this index refers solely to protection against UVB, sunscreens must guarantee protection against UVA rays at least equal to one-third of the level of protection against UVB ra ys.

Finally, the term "total screen" was banned in Europe in ****, as it was confusing, given that no sunscreen can guarantee total protection against UV rays.

Future regulations

Faced with the impact of sunscreens on the environment, the French government has reacted to a study byAnses. Three UV filters - oxybenzone, octinoxate and octocrylene - have been identified as dangerous for corals. TheAnses recommends studies supported by manufacturers, reinforced monitoring of chemical substances, and management measures.

The current Minister for Ecological Transition, Christophe Béchu, has said he is in favor ...

6.1 Market segmentation

Here is a summary table of the most important players in suncare products in France:

• Johnson & Johnson
• La Roche-Posay
• Eau Thermale d'Avène (Pierre Fabre Groupe)
• Biotherm (L'Oréal)
• Laboratoires de Biarritz
• Lancaster Beauty (Coty group)
• Ultra Violette
• Garancia Laboratoire
• The Ordinary
• Expanscience Mustela Laboratoires