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1 Market Summary

1.1 Definition and presentation

 

A cosmetic is any substance or mixture intended for the external surfaces of the human body (epidermis, hair, nails, lips, external genitalia) or teeth and mucous membranes of the mouth. The purpose of cosmetics is to clean, scent, change the appearance, protect, maintain in good condition, or correct the flaws of the surfaces listed above. The dermo-cosmetic market is closely related to the cosmetic market. They are indeed often used interchangeably. In Greek, derma refers to skin care, hence dermo-cosmetics, which combines cosmetics with functional active ingredients. Thus, dermo-cosmetic products provide both aesthetic and therapeutic benefits sometimes in the form of actual therapies to treat specific skin problems such as acne, dermatitis, psoriasis, and other skin diseases. In other words, they contain active ingredients to improve and treat both the appearance and health of the skin.

There is a further subtle distinction between dermo-cosmetics and skincare products. The latter always refers to skincare to improve skin health and radiance, but it also refers to professional treatments such as microdermabrasion, chemical peels, and laser therapies for daily skin care.

Dermo cosmetics can be divided into different product categories. The following list sums up the top sellers:

  • Face care, such as products for acne wrinkles, spots, aging, and more.
  • Body care, such as gel cleansers, exfoliants, moisturizing masks,
  • Skin and hair care.

The global market growth - with a CAGR of 9.71 percent - is driven by a growing number of consumers who are more lifestyle-conscious but also by their desire to improve the beauty of their skin and hair. In addition, demand is increasing due to rising levels of pollution and related skin problems, which have led to more preventive actions in consumer habits.

In Italy, the cosmetics demand in prevention has taken over the need for protection in recent years. This phenomenon will influence the cosmetics market as a whole. People are more aware of their purchases and tend to take care of their skin to improve its health and also its appearance. Dermocosmetics, due to their properties and results, can help skin-related problems with longer-term results. In general, the market is positioned at the juncture between beauty and health, two variables that were formerly separated but are now increasingly merging and progressively affecting more consumers. That is why the projections about the growth of the sector are positive. It would seem, however, that demand and interest are growing faster than supply and the attractiveness of distribution channels.

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Latest news

Pierre Fabre sells its immuno-oncology research center - 02/09/2024
  • - The Pierre Fabre Group has entered into exclusive negotiations to sell its Saint-Julien-en-Genevois R&D center to pharmaceutical subcontractor Jubilant Biosys.
  • - The center employs 35 people.
  • - The center was set up in 1990 and specializes in immuno-oncology, notably in the development of monoclonal or conjugated antibodies and immunomodulating biologics.
  • - Jubilant Biosys, which employs 2,300 people in India, Italy and the USA, carries out contract R&D for pharmaceutical groups.
  • - The site also included a 45-strong monoclonal antibody clinical batch production unit, which was sold in 2020 to subcontractor Fareva, and later to GTP Bioways, acquired by Italy's Olon.
  • - Pierre Fabre is discontinuing immuno-oncology research to focus on targeted cancer therapies, with an oncology R&D budget of 100 million euros per year and revenues of 500 million euros.
  • - The group has transferred all its research to the Toulouse Oncopôle, which employs 650 people, with 40 new hires in 2023 and 30 planned for 2024.
  • - Pierre Fabre's sales in 2023 will be 2.83 billion euros, up 6%, with 57% generated in dermocosmetics.
Pierre Fabre Laboratories acquire a stake in start-up MiYé - 08/10/2023
  • Start-up MiYé was co-founded in 2020 by Caroline de Blignières and Anna Oualid.
  • MiYé specializes in women's hormonal well-being.
  • The start-up distributes a range of 13 products, including 5 dietary supplements and 8 dermo-cosmetics.
  • The Pierre Fabre Group also became a majority shareholder in Ladrôme Laboratoire in 2021, and sole shareholder in Même Cosmetics a year later.
  • Pierre Fabre's strategy is to strengthen its brand portfolio by acquiring targeted stakes in companies operating in specific markets.
  • The MiYé brand is currently distributed in 200 points of sale.
Pierre Fabre takes control of Même Cosmetics - 26/04/2023
  • The Pierre Fabre Group has acquired Même Cosmetics, a leading French dermo-cosmetics brand for patients suffering from the side effects of cancer treatments.
  • Même had already been part of the Pierre Fabre Group for five years, with a minority stake.
  • The company generates over 50% of its sales in the dermo-cosmetics sector.
  • Même Cosmetics offers 46 products available in 4,800 pharmacies and parapharmacies, as well as on its own online sales site.
  • The brand is present in ten European countries, including Germany, Belgium, Switzerland, Morocco, Spain, Italy, Romania, the Czech Republic and China.
  • Pierre Fabre is the world's second-largest dermo-cosmetics laboratory and France's 2nd-largest private pharmaceutical group.
  • The group is the market leader in France, ahead of L'Oréal.
  • Pierre Fabre generates 69% of its sales internationally, with France and China its main markets.
  • The company has 43 subsidiaries worldwide and operates in three business sectors: dermo-cosmetics, family health and pharmaceuticals.
  • The Group employs 9,600 people, including 5,300 in France.
  • Pierre Fabre achieved sales of 2.7 billion euros (up +10% in one year).
  • Pierre Fabre's objective is to achieve sales of 3.5 billion euros by 2025.
Pierre Fabre expands its dermo-cosmetics range with the Même brand - 20/04/2023
  • Même Cosmetics was founded in 2015. The company employs 40 people.
  • Pierre Fabre had acquired 15% of Même Cosmetics at the end of 2017.
  • The products are available in 4,800 pharmacies and parapharmacies in France and ten other countries, as well as online.
  • Même Cosmetics generates 15% of its sales from exports.
  • The Pierre Fabre Group has 9,600 employees.
  • By 2022, Pierre Fabre's sales have risen by 10.1% to 2.7 billion euros.
  • Growth in dermo-cosmetics is 11.7%, while that of pharmaceuticals is 8%.
  • Dermo-cosmetics represent 55% of Pierre Fabre's sales, and oncology 17%.
  • China has become Pierre Fabre's second largest market, after France.
Pierre Fabre has bought back the rights to Urovant's vibégron for $75 million. - 06/07/2022
  • Pierre Fabre has just signed a licensing agreement with Urovant Sciences, a subsidiary of US biotech Sumitovant Biopharma, for vibegron for the treatment of overactive bladder.
  • Urovant to receive up to $75 million
  • The aim is to sell its products in Europe, including the UK and Switzerland, certain French-speaking countries in sub-Saharan Africa, Turkey and certain Eastern European countries.
  • The two entities will share responsibility for European clinical trials of vibegron in pediatric populations.
  • Worldwide, 546 million people over the age of twenty are affected by OAB.

Companies quoted in this study

This study contains a complete overview of the companies in the market, with the latest figures and news for each company. :

L'Oréal Italia
EuroItalia
Manetti & Roberts
GOTTARDO S.P.A.
Douglas
KIKO Milano
Pierre Fabre

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