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Summary and extracts

1 Market Overview

1.1 Definition and scope of the study

The perfume market refers to the market for scented liquid typically made from essential oils extracted from flowers and spices, used to give a pleasant smell to one's body. These are often alcohol-based.

Every year about 400 new patented perfumes are released into the global market, which is worth about $48.42 billion. Consumers are constantly looking for products belonging to this market, seeking out intoxicating fragrances even from Italy, which is the world's fifth largest market in the trade of these products. Perfumes represent the third highest purchase for the Italian household within the 'body care' sector (preceded by facial and body care products)

Until the COVID-19 pandemic and the economic environment it unleashed, this sector was booming in previous years (fluctuating between 2-3.5 percent year-on-year, 2.3 percent in 2019). The domestic market increased by 1.9 percent while the export market grew by nearly 3 percent. Despite regular price increases in perfumeries and large retail centers, this market continued to grow, making up about 20% of the Italian cosmetics sector. The year 2020 was the first year of market contraction in more than a decade with a 12.8 percent decline, with the domestic market contracting 9.8 percent and exports dropping 16.5 percent.

The perfume sector is markedly segmented in terms of sales with four main types of sellers:

  • Perfumeries (individual perfumeries, local franchises and branded stores that sell other products but also perfumes) account for 75 percent of the market share
  • Large retailers
  • Parapharmacies
  • Supermarkets, hypermarkets and other forms of distribution account for less than 1 percent

Production is unevenly distributed in a geographical sense, with more than 50 percent of production centers and companies in the northern region of Lombardy, followed by Emilia Romagna with about 10 percent and Veneto with nearly 8 percent. The north largely dominates the south in terms of production, with 3 southern regions not even ranked due to low production levels. Italy also hosts 7 annual free perfume exhibitions, which help spread new fragrances to the general public.

With the economic downturn of the pandemic, the perfume industry in Italy has seen a boost during the holiday season (such as Christmas), as perfumes tend to be popular and easy gifts.

1.2 The global perfume market

The global perfume market is growing rapidly, reaching a value of about $**.** billion in **** . The industry is expected to grow at a CAGR of *.* percent over the forecast period from **** to ****.

The fragrance industry is strongly driven by the growing popularity of different types of fragrances among millennials, as well as ...

1.3 The Italian domestic market

The Italian cosmetics market has been estimated at **.* billion euros in ****, growing by *.*% compared to ****; this sector, being constantly growing, represents a significant part of Made in Italy production. In line with the global trend, the perfume and fragrance market accounts for **.* percent of the turnover of the Italian cosmetics market, ...

1.4 Exports and imports

The Italian cosmetics market depends largely on exports: its trend has been growing for more than a decade, and although this slowed down slightly in ****, and then recorded a significant drop in **** (***) has been noted since ****. The positive numerics, in light of the sector's responsiveness, represent characteristics of resilience, investment and ...

1.5 The impact of Covid-19 on the perfume market

The pandemic has had a major impact on the cosmetics market and the perfume and fragrance industry in particular, on the one hand causing several difficulties and major losses, but also accelerating transformations and changes that were taking place before ****.

The Italian cosmetics market shrank by *.* percent, the total turnover of ...

1.6 The impact of the Russian-Ukrainian conflict

The outbreak of the Russian-Ukrainian conflict in February **** led to a general increase in the consumer price index in various economic sectors. With regard to the perfume sector, we analyze the broader item-present in the ISTAT database-including Personal hygiene and wellness articles, which does not appear to be exempt from this ...

2 Demand analysis

2.1 Demand characteristics

Turnover generated in traditional and digital channels

The following is an overview of perfumery turnover in recent years; in **** the value of turnover is *.* million euros, down from ****(***). A percentage change of *.*% is expected in **** . **** **** **** Var. % '**/'** Var. % '**/'** Var. % '**/'** Var. % '**/'** Perfumery sales *.*** *.*** *.*** **,*% -*,*% **,*% *,*%

According ...

2.2 Factors influencing demand

Perfumes are considered by many to be luxury and sophisticated items and, as such, are often chosen as gifts for special occasions. This determines attests to a strong seasonality of the market, which increases in size during the holidays. The market is certainly influenced by the growing propensity to seek out ...

2.3 Geographical distribution of demand

To visualize the geographic distribution of demand, a map was created with monthly household spending on personal care items and products by Italian macro-region, which is assumed to be in line with monthly household spending for the perfume subgroup.

The north presents the highest figure, with **.** €/month, in the center the ...

2.4 New demand trends

Trends in the fragrance market for **** revolve around the pursuit of sustainability, innovation, and individual expression. Key trends that need to be taken into account in this industry are:

environmental sustainability and health awareness: the fragrance industry in **** is characterized by an increasing focus on environmental sustainability and health. Consumers are ...

3 Market structure

3.1 Market structure and dynamics

The perfume and fragrance market represents a fascinating sector deeply rooted in the tradition and culture of many societies. Perfumes are an essential element of personal toiletry for men and women, which is why consumers have a constant demand for them. Manufacturers range from historic and luxurious brands to newcomers seeking ...

3.2 Value Chain

The value chain in the fragrance market, involves several stages starting from fragrance development and production to retail and final consumption.

Research and development: at this stage the fragrance is created by perfumers, which will be tested to ensure that quality and safety standards are met. Procurement ofraw materials: the purchase ...

3.3 Distribution channels

After perfumes are compounded and encapsulated, they are distributed through multiple distribution channels and sold to consumers. The main distribution channels for perfume markets are as follows: perfumeries, mass retailers, and parapharmacies. Supermarkets also play a role in product distribution, but they account for less than * percent of total sales.\ ...

3.4 Main market players

Leading fragrance companies represent a combination of tradition, innovation and mastery in the art of perfumery. Many of these companies have a history that begins centuries ago and, to this day, continue to set olfactory trends globally, enchanting consumers with unique and memorable fragrances. Prominent names include historic houses such as ...

4 Supply analysis

4.1 Production and classification of perfumes

Production

Once the raw materials are obtained, the perfume is produced by observing steps:

The perfumer mixes different essences (***) to create what is called a perfume base; This perfumed base is diluted in alcohol depending on the concentration chosen for the type of article (***). Distilled water is also added; This mixture ...

4.2 Fragrance composition

A perfume can be broken down and analyzed according to what is called the "olfactory pyramid, " which has three levels.[***] Main notes: the smells that can be smelled immediately after spraying the perfume, but also those that fade faster. These are often the freshest and greenest notes, such as bergamot or ...

4.3 Prices of perfumes and fragrances

The table below provides an overview of the prices per *** ml of the best-selling perfumes in Italy. The fragrances belong to the premium segment and the average price is about *** €.[***]

4.4 New supply trends

In a time of uncertainty and continuous economic crises, consumers' yearning for psychological well-being intensifies. This shift also shapes the beauty industry, where greater escapism is sought both aesthetically and internally. Timely technological advances will profoundly shape expectations toward products and services through the introduction of new categories and trends. In ...

5 Regulations

5.1 The production of perfume: Regulation (EC) No.1223/2009

Pursuant to Law **/**/****, No. ***, Art. **; Legislative Decree **/**/****, No. ** - Regulation (***) No.****/****, Art. **; Ministerial Decree */*/****; Legislative Decree **/**/****, No. ***.

"The production of alcohol-based toiletries, soaps and perfumes requires that the notification of cosmetic products intended for sale on the EU market be submitted exclusively electronically through the centralized system called Cosmetic Product ...

6 Positioning of players

6.1 Segmentation

  • Salvatore Ferragamo
  • Giorgio Armani
  • Bulgari
  • Acqua di Parma
  • Sephora
  • Gucci
  • Givaudan
  • Gianni Versace
  • Dolce & Gabbana
  • Interparfums

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Latest news

Sephora downsizes in China after leaving South Korea - 22/08/2024
  • - Sephora is shedding "just under 3%" of its workforce in China, or around 100 jobs.
  • - Sephora has around 400 stores in Asia, including 300 in China.
  • - Founded in 1968 and acquired by LVMH in 1997, Sephora set up in Beijing in 2005.
  • - Sephora is the number one retailer of high-end beauty products in the United States.
  • - The company is targeting sales of "20 billion euros".
  • - Sephora's operations in China would have generated combined losses over 2022 and 2023 of $46 million, according to annual reports from Shanghai Jahwa United Co. Ltd. which holds 19% of its business on the mainland.
  • - Sephora recently reduced its presence in South Korea and withdrew from Taiwan.
  • - The brand is a significant contributor to LVMH sales, second only to Louis Vuitton (over 20 billion in sales).
  • - Sephora has estimated sales of over $12 billion, according to Bernstein.
nterparfums takes off on the stock market with Lacoste and Pierre Niney - 24/07/2024
  • Coach and Jimmy Choo fragrance licenses account for a quarter of Interparfums sales
  • - Interparfums recorded sales of almost 37 million euros with the launch of Lacoste fragrances this year, exceeding expectations.
  • - Sales of Montblanc fragrances fell by 4% over the half-year to 103 million euros, while sales of Lanvin fragrances dropped by 23% to 20.9 million euros.
Dolce & Gabbana goes public to realize its dreams of greatness - 24/07/2024
  • - Estimated value of Dolce & Gabbana: around 6 billion euros.
  • - Dolce & Gabbana sales for fiscal 2023-2024: €1.8 billion.
  • - Annual sales growth: 17% year-on-year.
  • - Share of sales in China before the "bad buzz" of 2018: over 20% of sales.
  • - Decline in the activities of certain luxury players in China: up to 30%.
  • - Share of Dolce & Gabbana sales in the United States and Canada: close to 30% of its business.
  • - Number of Dolce & Gabbana stores in the United States: 72, with 12 new openings planned.
  • - Sales target for Dolce & Gabbana's beauty division, reinternalised in 2022: from 1.5 to 3 billion euros within four years.
  • - Number of people hired to develop the beauty division: nearly 300.
From Bulgari 700,000 euros for the setting up of the Mausoleum of Augustus in Rome - 26/03/2024

Funding: 700 thousand euros

  • - Project: Museum arrangement of the Mausoleum of Augustus in Rome
  • - Architect in charge: Rem Koolhaas
  • - Expected opening year: 2026
  • - Museum size: Largest in Rome
  • - Previous restoration and enhancement by Bulgari:
    • - Restoration of the Golden Staircase of the Doge's Palace in Venice (2006)
    • - Restoration of the Spanish Steps at the Spanish Steps in Rome (2014)
    • - Restoration of the polychrome mosaic of the Baths of Caracalla (2015-16)
    • - Restoration of more than 90 Greek and Roman sculptures from the Torlonia collection (2017)
    • - Restoration of the Sacred Area of Largo Argentina (2021)
    • - Funding for the lighting of the Ara Pacis
  • - Number of monuments restored thanks to Bulgari patronage: 6
  • - Statements:
    • - Jean-Christophe Babin (CEO of Bulgari and president of Bvlgari Foundation): commitment to the preservation of artistic heritage
    • - Mayor of Rome, Roberto Gualtieri: importance of public-private partnership and Bulgari's contribution to the restoration of significant monuments
Sephora to rapidly increase sales from 12 to 20 billion euros - 23/10/2023
  • Sephora is the world leader in selective perfumery.
  • LVMH has owned Sephora since 1997.
  • The Sephora store on the Champs Elysées welcomes 10,000 visitors a day.
  • The global beauty market grew by 6% last year to reach 250 billion euros.
  • Sephora has forecast 17% growth by 2022.
  • The brand has 2,700 stores.
  • By 2022, according to analysts, Sephora has almost reached 12 billion euros in sales.
Beauty: how Sephora is expanding in the United States - 07/10/2023
  • America is its first market
  • The French group opened its first store there twenty-five years ago
  • Today, it has 658 directly-operated stores on the American market, including 22 in New York
  • Sephora is present in 35 markets with 2,700 stores
  • A $430 billion industry according to McKinsey
  • The United States will consolidate its position as the world's leading beauty market, growing from $70 billion in 2022 to around $100 billion in 2027 (McKinsey).
  • The brand contributes 20% of LVMH sales and 12% of the Ebit of the number one in luxury goods.
  • sephora is America's leading selective retailer.
  • American retailer Kohl's, which has stores in 29 states, partnered with Sephora in 2020, and they share 862 "Sephora Kohl's".

Companies quoted in this study

This study contains a complete overview of the companies in the market, with the latest figures and news for each company. :

Salvatore Ferragamo
Giorgio Armani
Bulgari
Acqua di Parma
Sephora
Gucci
Givaudan
Gianni Versace
Dolce & Gabbana
Interparfums

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