The sneaker market - France (2024)

1.2 A booming global market

The global market was estimated at $**.** billion in **** , and is expected to grow at a CAGR of *.*% to ****.

Sneaker market size World, ****-****, in billions of USD Source: ****

The craze for branded and innovative sneakers, supported by rising disposable incomes, is boosting the market. However, counterfeiting is holding back growth. Personalized functionalities offer opportunities for companies in the sector. Growing demographics and health-consciousness are boosting demand, especially among fitness- and sports-oriented young people.

The COVID-** pandemic had a negative impact on the global sneaker market, with a significant drop in sales due to confinements and the shutdown of production units. Major companies such as Nike suffered heavy losses, particularly in China, a crucial market for them. During the pandemic, brands such as Adidas and Puma reported drastic losses in ****. The pandemic also led to the postponement of certain product releases. During this period, several key players in the sector turned to online platforms to maintain their sales.

In addition to sport, sneakers, generally made from synthetic materials, are used in everyday life, their production generating around ** kg of CO* per pair. Faced with this, many companies are turning to more sustainable materials.

The mid-high sneaker category is expected to grow the ...

1.3 A declining national footwear market supported by the national sneaker market

According to a La Tribune article published in November ****, the French sneaker market was worth $* billion in France in ****, or *.*** billion euros (***). In France, it is estimated that one out of every two pairs of new shoes sold is a pair of sneakers[***].

The shoe manufacturing market encompasses the sneaker manufacturing market, so we can use it as a guide to identify the main trends.

trends in the size of the French footwear manufacturing market France, **** - ****, in € millions Source: ****

This market, in constant decline since **** (***), experienced a sharp slowdown in **** due to the health crisis, losing **% in one year. This market is at least recovering strongly, peaking at ***.** million euros in ****, an increase of **% in two years.

We now turn our attention to the footwear retail sector.

change in the size of the French footwear retail market France, **** - ****, € billion Source: ****

Between **** and ****, the sector experienced stable growth, with sales rising from €*.** to €*.** billion, indicating a favorable period for the industry. However, between **** and ****, a slight decline was observed, down to *.** billion euros, suggesting a potential market slowdown or increased competition. In ****, sales rise slightly to *.** billion, which can be interpreted as a stabilization of the market. However, **** marks a ...

1.4 France, a net importer of sneakers

Sneakers are registered under HS code ******, which covers sports footwear: tennis shoes, basketball shoes, gym shoes, training shoes and similar footwear. Some sneakers may also fall under other HS codes, such as ******, which covers shoes other than sports shoes, with rubber or plastic soles and textile uppers. However, as we defined sneakers in the introduction as sports footwear for other purposes, we will focus on HS code ******.

Exports:

French sneaker exports France, **** - ****, in $ millions Source: ****

French sneaker exports from **** to **** show an upward trend overall. After initial moderate growth, a significant increase was observed, particularly around ****. A period of stability followed, but in **** and ****, exports saw a notable jump, probably due to a post-pandemic economic recovery and increased demand for luxury products. However, in ****, a slight decline suggests possible market saturation or strategic adjustments.

Main countries buying French sneakers World, ****, in millions of $ Source: ****

The top eight countries buying French sneakers are all European, led bySpain with $***.*** million worth of purchases in ****.Italy (***) follow.

Imports:

French sneaker imports France, **** - ****, in millions of $ Source: ****

French sneaker imports grew steadily from **** to ****, reaching $*.*** billion. In ****, they fell slightly to $*.*** billion, probably due to the COVID-** pandemic. However, in ****, there was a ...

2.1 Consumer trends in France and growing interest in sneakers

Initially designed for sports use, the sneaker has gradually spread to become "the most democratized shoe model", according to Pierre Demoux, author of a book on the subject (***). Today, * out of ** French people buy sneakers for purposes other than sport. This trend is also evident in the corporate world, where sneakers are now generally accepted, even in traditionally conservative sectors such as finance[***].

The French have been won over by their comfort and ability to adapt to the various activities that make up their day, from the workplace to the café. The craze is such that, in France, more than one in two shoes sold is a sneaker[***].

Which clothing expenditure items are favored by the French? France, ****, in Source: ****

Consumers' buying habits are extremely varied, as can be seen from the different amounts spent on shopping baskets on online sales sites.

Number of sneaker shoppers per average basket France, ****-****, in euros Source: ****

The graph above shows a breakdown of consumers according to the budget they devote to buying sneakers. The number of people buying sneakers for less than €** (***) fell sharply over the ****-**** period, and the number of people buying sneakers for between €** and €** remained stable. In contrast, the ...

2.2 French sneaker brands and favorite places to buy, according to Yougov

The French are big sneaker fans, and have strong preferences when it comes to sneaker brands. Adidas, Nike and Puma come out on top with **%, **% and **% respectively. Converse, Reebok and New Balance capture almost half the votes of the market leaders (***).

Which sneaker brands will the French prefer in ****? France, ****, %, % Source: ****

The French continue to prefer multi-brand stores for their sneaker purchases(***), even though the Internet and online sales account for **% and **% respectively of the French's purchasing intentions. **% prefer independent specialist stores.

Where will the French buy their sneakers in ****? France, ****, % of total Source: ****

2.3 Environmentally conscious sneaker addicts

The French are increasingly concerned about their impact on the environment. Buying sneakers is no exception to this trend, and of the **% of French people who answered "yes, absolutely" as to their purchasing preference, it's interesting to look at the details of this figure. The diagram below shows that this **% includes **% of ** - ** year-olds, **% of people from the highest social classes and **% of "Sneakers Addicts". We can therefore conclude that this demand is mainly aimed at fairly affluent young people, who follow the latest market trends fairly closely.

**% of French people prefer (***) to buy good-quality pairs, and among them... France, ****, % Source: YouGov - The French and sneakers - Page * The same results apply to the price of durable sneakers. The graph below shows that, once again, **% of **-** year-olds are prepared to pay more for a pair of eco-responsible sneakers. **% of French people are willing to pay more for sustainable sneakers, and among them... France, ****, % Source: ****

2.4 A market driven by collector demand

Sneakers have become much more than a consumer product for many passionate buyers. They don't hesitate to spend hundreds, even thousands of euros every month to acquire rare and therefore very expensive pairs. These consumers are also known as"sneaker addicts".

The profile of sneaker addicts

According to a study byIdealo in ****, sneaker addicts buy mostly on Wednesdays, with a budget of €**.**. The **-** age group is the most represented among them. In ****, the average value of the branded sneaker collection of French sneaker addicts was €*,***[***].

Sneaker addicts well targeted by manufacturers

The major sneaker brands, led by Nike and Adidas, skilfully orchestrate their product releases throughout the year to keep collectors interested. This involves regular releases of new models, as well as an increasing number of limited editions and collaborations with leading artists[***].

Retailers are also taking advantage of the craze for rare products or reissues of old commercial successes. Decathlon, for example, put a pair of vintage sneakers online on Wednesday March *, ****, but its site crashed immediately. This episode is not the first for the French retailer, since in February **** the same situation occurred with a vintage jogging suit from the **s. This case put Decahtlon in the spotlight. ...

2.5 Audience analysis

Audience breakdown by age France, ****, %, %, %, %, %, %, %, %, %, %, %, % Source: ****

Analysis of the data shows that the market's audience is mainly made up of individuals aged **-** (***). Audience breakdown by gender France, ****, % of total audience Source : Semrush In the market studied, an overall trend emerges in terms of audience distribution by gender. Men represent the majority with **.**% of the total audience, while women account for **.**%. This trend indicates male dominance in this specific market. Audience breakdown by gender and age France, ****, % of total audience Source : Semrush Analysis of the data shows a varied breakdown of the audience in the market studied, by gender and age group. For women, the audience is highest in the **-** and **+ age groups, with **.**% and **.**% respectively. For men, the audience is highest in the **-** and **-** age groups, with **.**% and **.**% respectively. The **-** and **-** age groups show a more balanced distribution between the sexes, with a slight male predominance. Audience breakdown by income level France, ****, % Semrush Semrush Analysis of the audience in the market studied, according to income level, reveals a marked trend towards a predominance of low-income individuals, representing **.**% of the total audience. Middle-income individuals constitute the second largest group, with a share of **.**%, while high-income individuals ...

3.1 The sneaker market value chain

Source: ****

The sneaker market value chain begins with the factory receiving all the components needed for production (***). Production then begins, and the finished product is inspected and packaged. As production and final consumption are very often far apart, the product is transported and exported to the market where it is to be sold. Once it has arrived at the central warehouse, it is sold to the distributor who has requested it. Finally, end consumers can purchase the product on the retailer's shelves.

For sneakers marketed in France, production rarely takes place in the country itself.

3.2 A hybrid market between sportswear giants, celebrity brands, innovative startups and luxury houses

Many of today's most popular sneaker brands were created in the **ᵉ century.

Source: ****

At the time of their creation, sneaker models were designed for a particular sport. The table below lists a few well-known examples.

Source: ****

French brands have also emerged since the early ****s, such as Veja (***).

Sportswear giants

Nike and Adidas, the world's leading sneaker companies, hold over **% of the global market (***). However, other companies are also thriving in this market, notably Puma, the world's third-largest sports equipment manufacturer, with a **% market share. Soccer, training and running are at the heart of its strategy[***].

Behind Nike, Adidas and Puma, the American company Under Armour has emerged as a serious competitor over the last ten years. But after years of very strong growth between **** and ****, the brand needs to reinvent itself. Its image is highly technical and associated with performance, but the most buoyant segment now seems to be lifestyle, towards which the brand could refocus. [***]

Brands around personalities

The first and most famous initiative of this type is the Jordan collection, the first model of which saw the light of day in **** when the player signed his first contract with Nike. The brand has since sold over *** million models ...

3.3 Multiple distribution channels

General sporting goods retailers

Brand names created around sport still have a significant share of the sneaker distribution market. These include Décathlon and Intersport, which sell all types of sporting goods. Courir takes a different approach: this brand sells only sports shoes, and has extended its range to include "city" sneakers.

Specialist sneaker stores

Courir, headquartered in France, is a major player in the European sportswear industry. The company has *** directly-operated stores in six countries, most of them in France, but also in Spain, Belgium, Portugal, the Netherlands and Luxembourg. In addition to these stores, Courir also has ** franchise stores in West Africa, the Middle East and French overseas territories. In fiscal ****, the company reported sales of ***.* million euros and earnings before interest and taxes of **.* million euros[***].

However, Courir is not alone in developing specialized sneaker stores in France. It faces emerging competition from Footlocker and Athlete's Foot (***). In a growing market, the aim is to open stores in strategic locations, before competitors do. Although it does not offer private labels, Courir manages to differentiate itself from its competitors by offering"collabs" and exclusivities[***].

Own stores of sneaker manufacturers

Adidas and Nike own numerous stores across France, enabling them ...

3.4 The development of ancillary services and products for sneakers

Sneakers are a product of enthusiasts, which means that their owners are prepared to spend a lot of money to keep their pairs in good condition for as long as possible. This phenomenon is further reinforced by the advent of the second-hand market, where sneakers can be resold for a very good price, provided they are well preserved.

Sneaker care services

Shoes are probably one of the dirtiest items in a wardrobe. Yet they are also one of the most popular items for most consumers. In response to this desire to keep sneakers clean, the concept of sneaker dry cleaning was born. The Sneakers and Chill company, founded by Romain Louisy, offers to clean, restore and even customize sneakers[***].

China is a leading market model in this niche of sneaker maintenance services. Kicks Town, the local leader, is experiencing impressive growth, with **% more customers each month since ****. This figure gives an idea of the potential of this market in France, if the offer adapts well to consumer demand[***].

Sneaker care products

When it comes to sneaker care, several brands stand out for the quality of their products. Jason Markk, founded in ****, is renowned for its wide range of cleaning products, from ...

3.5 Interview with Thomas Eskenazi, co-founder of Balt

This interview is taken from our Businesscoot podcast entitled "La Niche", which you can find on our website.

Marine: Thomas, let's get started. Let me introduce you and Balt.

Thomas: I'm co-founder of Balt. There are two of us on the project. Balt is a lifestyle sneaker brand that aims to democratize access to ethical fashion. We do this by working exclusively with certified European factories. We promote the use of recycled materials. We communicate in a very transparent way and, above all, we develop products that are as stylish as possible, differentiating and very comfortable. Because that's still one of your main purchasing criteria?

Marine: So, to begin this episode, let's take a look at the market as a whole, and some key data to help us get our bearings. Today, eight out of ten French people buy sneakers for purposes other than sport. It's a market that's literally exploding. Worldwide, it's estimated at $** billion, with growth of *%. Potentially by ****. The French market, of course, is smaller, worth * billion euros, but sales have doubled in five years. And today, sneakers account for **% of total footwear sales in France. So it's a very, very dynamic market. And my question, my first ...

4.1 Prices for the most popular sneaker models

This sub-section lists the prices of the most popular shoe models from the major sneaker brands.

Men's models:

Women's models:

There are big price differences between the most popular models. However, there is no noticeable difference in price between women's and men's shoes.

4.2 A market in the throes of innovation

Strong growth in the sneaker market doesn't stop manufacturers looking for new ways to win market share. On the contrary, they spend a great deal of money on R&D to develop innovative products that can recruit new customers and retain existing ones.

*D printing:

Innovation means modernizing production methods. *D printing is already beginning to revolutionize the industry, enabling manufacturers to produce wherever they want at a uniform cost. This technological advance could bring production closer to the main national sneaker markets, including France.the *D-printed sneaker concept was highlighted at Fashion Week ****, offering haute couture and the sportswear industry a platform to showcase innovative creations similar to "concept cars". The experimental sneakers were designed by Reebok and Botter using the HP Multi Jet Fusion *D printer, underlining the growing role of technology in fashion development[***].

Technological product innovation:

Innovation is also about products. Manufacturers are thinking about the best ways tointegrate technology into their footwear. Nike, for example, has launched its self-fastening sneaker in ****[***].

In December ****, Nike acquired digital fashion start-up RTFKT, marking its interest in the metaverse, a parallel universe often seen as the future of the internet. RTFKT, founded in **** and pronounced "artifact", specializes in the ...

4.3 The rapid development of high-end sneakers

Designer and luxury sneakers are not a recent trend. Luxury sports brands such as Lacoste began creating high-end models, followed by others such as Gucci in ****. Today, sneakers are a fixture on Fashion Week catwalks, marking their evolution in the fashion world[***].

Faced with the burgeoning sneaker market, luxury brands have not hesitated to offer new models, far removed from their traditional offering, to penetrate this sector. Major brands such as Gucci, Prada and Balanciaga have been conquering the high-end sneaker market for several years. These brands rely on costly marketing campaigns and heavy investment. Prices for models start at around €*** and rise to much higher sums, such as Louboutin's crystal-embellished leather sneakers, which sell for €*,***. Some limited-edition shoes can fetch considerable prices, topping €*,***. This is particularly true of models such as the Chanel X Pharrell Hu Race Trail or the Nike Air Jordan * Retro DJ Khaled Grateful[***].

The Stylight website has published a ranking of the best pairs of luxury sneakers in ****:

However, sneakers from luxury houses are not the only high-end sneakers on the market. Many French manufacturers also offer products in this range. However, competition is fierce for this type of product, and many brands are looking to ...

4.4 The rise of eco-friendly sneakers

In the face of growing environmental awareness, major sneaker brands such as Nike, Adidas, Puma and Converse have taken major initiatives to reduce their environmental impact. Nike has launched"Move to Zero" to minimize waste and use recycled materials. Adidas aims to become carbon neutral by **** with recyclable products such as the"Futurecraft Loop" collection. Puma reduces greenhouse gas emissions by using sustainable materials. Converse, a Nike subsidiary, recycles surplus materials. The industry is moving towards sustainable materials and transparency, while promoting the second-hand sneaker resale market[***].

Furthermore, according to a survey conducted by OpinionWay for Les Echos and the Fédération nationale de l'habillement in ****, **% of French people say they are ready to turn away from clothing brands that do not respect the environment and people.

Would you turn away from a clothing brand that did not respect a minimum of social and environmental constraints? France, ****, in % Source: ****

The war in Ukraine is also having an impact on French consumption. Indeed, **% of them see this conflict as a reason to change their consumption habits. They want to make their purchases more responsible(***).

Changes in purchasing behavior favored by the French France, ****, in Source: ****

Veja is the best example of ...

5. Footwear regulations

Labeling rules:

Footwear labelling must include information on the materials used to make the upper, lining, insole and outsole. This information must appear directly on at least one item of footwear. The label must appear on one of the following three parts of the footwear[***] :

the upper: the outer surface attached to the outsole ; the lining and insole (***) ; the outsole: the lower surface subject to wear and tear due to walking, attached to the upper.

please note that it is not compulsory to indicate the animal species used (***) for footwear.

The applicable labelling regulations are as follows:

Decree no. **-*** of May **, ****, Art. * to Art. ** (***); Annex I of Decree no. **-*** of May **, **** (***); Decree ****-** of January *, **** (***).

Environmental regulations:

Certain companies in the footwear sector may be subject to regulations governing facilities classified for environmental protection (***).These regulations apply to certain industrial activities which are listed in the nomenclature of classified installations, in the form of a heading. Footwear manufacturing is covered by this nomenclature, under heading no. ****, which reads as follows: "Ateliers de fabrication de chaussures, maroquinerie ou travail des cuirs et des peaux"[***].

6.1 Segmentation of players in the sneaker industry

• Adidas
• Veja
• Intersport France
• Courir France
• Go Sport France
• Zalando
• Sport 2000
• Puma Groupe
• Balt
• StockX
• Caval
• Wethenew
• National Standard
• Faguo
• I-Run
• Converse (Groupe Nike)
• Under Armour
• On Running
• Vans (VF corporation)
• Paraboot - Richard-Pontvert
• Palladium
• Jordan (Nike)
• Belledonne
• Belledonne
• Axel Arigato
• Nike
• Golden Goose
• Bensimon
• Bobbies
• New Balance
• Moa
• Running Conseil
• Chamatex
• Circle Sportswear
• Foot Locker
• Decathlon Groupe
• Naked Copenhagen
• Faguo
• N’GO Shoes
• Newlab
• Panafrica
• Piola
• Relance C2LC
• Spring Court