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Summary of our market study
In France, around 700,000 suits are sold every year, a very small proportion of which are made-to-measure. More than 2 million suits were sold 10 years ago.
The global men's suit market, valued at $29.675 billion in 2022, is expected to grow at an average annual rate of 2.77% to 2028.
Europe holds the largest market share (26%), followed by North America (22%).
The made-to-measure suit segment, though a niche, is proving resilient and innovative.
The French made-to-measure suit market
The French apparel market, which includes made-to-measure suits, saw a sharp decline in 2020, with sales of €3 billion, but rebounded in 2022, reaching over €4 billion.
Telecommuting has further accelerated this trend, particularly during the health crisis, which led to a drop of over 50% in suit sales.
Only a small percentage of men buy a suit each year, and despite the decline in traditional suit wear, certain market segments, such as the made-to-measure sector, are holding up well.
The rise of sartorialism, which prioritizes style and innovation over brands, and is supported by social media platforms such as Instagram, has also stimulated interest in classic elegance, reshaping the suit market towards a niche of enthusiasts who appreciate its artistic side.
In some professions, the suit remains a strong symbol of professionalism, authority and power, but its wearing is now reserved for a limited number of events and meetings.
Tailors and brands shaping the made-to-measure suit market
- Atelier NA revolutionizes made-to-measure with 3D technology
- Cifonelli atelier, whose history dates back to the late 19th century
- Camps de Luca offers an experience rooted in the traditions of French couture,
- Rives Paris brings a contemporary touch to the made-to-measure market
- Faubourg Saint Sulpice
- L'Apiéceur
- Samson
- Scabal
- Major fashion brands contribute to the market by offering made-to-measure suits:
- Hugo Boss
- Giorgio Armani
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Summary and extracts
1 Market overview
1.1 Definition and scope of study
A made-to-measure suit is one that is adjusted to the individual's morphology. The tailoring process can vary, from handmade craftsmanship to industrial production, and a distinction is made between made-to-measure (also known as grande mesure) and half-measure:
- Made-to-measure (or grande mesure) requires the creation of a new pattern created for each customer, which corresponds to a long process (initial appointment and intermediate fittings).
- In the case of half-measure, the tailor starts from an existing pattern and then makes anatomical modifications (short sleeves, back shape, shoulders...) as well as those that are in line with the customer's tastes (slim fit, colors...).
However, industrial half-measure brands can sometimes create confusion by using the unregulated term "sur-mesure". As a result, it is possible to buy industrial half-measure under the name of "made-to-measure".
The global costume market is dynamic: valued at $29.675 billion in 2022, it is expected to grow at a CAGR of 2.77% to 2028. This growth is driven by the world's growing population, rising living standards in developing countries, and the development of office work. Europe has the largest share of the global market with 26%, closely followed by North America with 22%.
In France, the outerwear market is growing, but suit sales are declining. The reasons for this are the same as those cited above, although new trends are contributing to demand, such as sartorialism, the development of e-commerce and the growing popularity of second-hand clothing.
The period of the health crisis was extremely difficult for companies in the sector, so they had to reinvent themselves. Some companies, like Tailor Corner, rely on technology to reduce costs. Others, such as Lanieri with its "made in Italy" made-to-measure range, and Jonas & Cie, which offers ready-to-wear, half-measure and made-to-measure products, are seeking to differentiate themselves with a different business model, while large-measure houses such as Arnys, Camps de Luca and Smalto continue to capture a share of the market.
Finally, despite the threat posed by the rise of telecommuting and streetwear, suits, particularly made-to-measure, seem to retain a good image with consumers, and could regain market share thanks to a skilful blend of innovation and tradition.
1.2 A growing global market
The global men's suit market was valued at $**.*** billion in ****, and is expected to grow at a CAGR of *.**% to ****.
Global men's suit market size projection World, **** - ****, in $ billions Source: ****
Population growth and rising incomes in emerging countries are the main factors driving market growth. Consumers are becoming increasingly demanding ...
1.3 A national market in structural decline
The made-to-measure suit sector is an extremely specific one, about which we unfortunately have very little information. We can, however, draw on a broader market, encompassing made-to-measure suits, to identify trends in this segment.
In INSEE's NAF nomenclature, made-to-measure suits come under subclass **.**Z: "Manufacture of outerwear". This subclass includes :
The ...
2 Demand analysis
2.1 A must-have in every French woman's wardrobe
Made-to-measure is both an act of pleasure and, increasingly, an act of responsibility. unlike compulsive purchases, a made-to-measure piece is thought through, imagined and created. Made-to-measure fits perfectly into a sustainable approach to consuming less and better. Made-to-measure also reflects a quest for elegance and distinction, far removed from the bland, ...
2.2 Demand hit hard by the rise of Friday wear, startups and telecommuting
The latest trends in workplace clothing:
Adopted in France since the early ****s,"casual Friday" offers employees the opportunity to dress down on Fridays and leave behind the eternal suit and tie. However, far from being confined to Fridays, this movement has gradually gained ground and is now applicable to every ...
2.3 A generation Y demanding made-to-measure suits
Paradoxically, despite the end of the compulsory suit era, Generation Y pays close attention to what it wears and refuses to put the suit to death. The rejection is more that of uniform-type clothing, destined to be worn every day. The demand for elegant, sophisticated outfits still exists , and while the ...
2.4 E-commerce and second-hand: two major fashion trends that are also appealing to the made-to-measure suit market
The e-commerce sector is becoming increasingly important in the fashion market. In ****, the fashion/clothing category was the most popular sector for online purchases, accounting for **% of all sales, followed by footwear at **% and bags and luggage at **%. According to Fevad (***), **% of French people believe that e-commerce saves them time[***]. Hockerty ...
2.5 Weddings: a source of demand for made-to-measure suits
With ***,*** weddings in ****, this ceremony represents a major source of demand for made-to-measure suits[***]. There is a willingness on the part of brides and grooms to reduce the costs of their wedding by making savings on various expenditure items. However, outfits are only the *ᵉ expenditure item on which the French are ...
2.6 Seasonal demand
We can study the seasonality of sales using Google Trends, which gives us the frequency with which search terms are used.the results provided by the site indicate the frequency of use of a specific keyword in a given region and during a defined period, compared to the region where this ...
3 Market structure
3.1 A structural decline in the number of jobs and companies in the outerwear manufacturing industry
In the INSEE NAF nomenclature, made-to-measure suits come under subclass **.**Z: "Manufacture of outerwear", which comprises several categories (***).
Number of establishments and workforce in the Outerwear Manufacturing industry France, ****-****, in units Source: ****
The number of establishments in the outerwear manufacturing industry has been declining for over a decade. Between **** and ...
3.2 Focus on tailoring in France and the return of women's tailoring
The tailor's trade encompasses the manual production of iconic garments for men's wardrobes, including suits consisting of jacket, pants and sometimes vest, tuxedos and coats. The tailor's trade can also extend to the production of women's suits.
Until the ****s, made-to-measure suits were widespread among French men. Since then, however, the ...
3.3 The main players in the made-to-measure suit market and competition with ready-to-wear garments
The made-to-measure suit market is made up of many small players (***), but some major luxury fashion groups also offer made-to-measure services.
The LVMH group, for example, offers this service in its Paris boutique on avenue Montaigne through its Louis Vuitton brand[***]. LVMH is the most valuable fashion group on the stock ...
3.4 French players' strategies
The use of new technologies:
More and more brands are using the help of technology to speed up costume creation processes and improve the quality of the final products. One example is Tailor Corner, which uses a computerized system to ensure a seamless process. Patterns are adjusted using specific software in ...
4 Offer analysis
4.1 Typology of the made-to-measure suit offer
There are several categories within the world of made-to-measure suits, the two main ones being custom-made and made-to-measure.
Choice of style:
Thermobonding: the interlining is attached to the outer fabric with a hot iron and resin. This is an inexpensive technique, but less resistant to the passage of time. Semi-interlining: traditional ...
4.2 Clear deflation in the made-to-measure suit market
In INSEE's NAF nomenclature, made-to-measure suits come under subclass **.**Z Manufacture of outerwear, which comprises several categories (***).
Producer price index for the Other outerwear market France, October **** - August ****, index base *** in **** Source: ****
Production prices for outerwear have been on a downward trend for several years. In ****, they were more than ...
4.3 Price examples for made-to-measure suits
The table below shows the prices of several French tailors in different ranges.
More generally, prices vary mainly according to the level of technical expertise required:
Ready-to-wear: between €** and €*,***; Demi-mesure: from €*** to €*,***; Made-to-measure: prices from €*,***[***].
5 Regulations
5.1 Strict regulation of the made-to-measure suit market in France
The art of tailoring:
The January **** decree law for the defense of the tailor's art governs the use of technical terms of the tailor's trade such as "made-to-measure", "tailor-made" or "traditional manufacture". It includes several articles defining what tailoring is and under what conditions the related vocabulary can be used to ...
5.2 The law on the fight against waste and the circular economy :
Law no. ****-*** of February ** introduced or reinforced several rules relating to waste and the circular economy. Summarized in a study by the Fédération française du prêt-à-porter féminin, the main measures concerning ready-to-wear are as follows:
Ban on the destruction of unsold non-food items
Article ...
6 Positioning the players
6. Segmentation
- Brioni
- Arnys
- Cifonelli
- Camps de Luca
- Rives Paris
- Faubourg Saint Sulpice
- Lanificio Cerruti (Piacenza grupo)
- Les Nouveaux Ateliers
- Atelier Mesure Paris
- Francesco Smalto
- Les Deux Oursons
- LVMH Groupe
- Kering
- Scabal
- Samson
- L'apiéceur
- Artling
- Hugo Boss
- Giorgio Armani
- Burberry
- Blandin & Delloye
- Smuggler
- Atelier NA
- Hockerty
List of charts presented in this market study
- Size of the outerwear manufacturing market
- Production price index for the outerwear industry
- Number of establishments in the outerwear manufacturing industry
- Workforce in the outerwear manufacturing industry
- Number of costumes sold
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Latest news
Brioni strengthens in womenswear - 22/02/2024
- **Number of development seasons**: Fifth season.
- **Key market**: Europe, the United States, Japan.
- **Collection**: Fall/Winter 2024/25.
- **Number of looks in the collection**: 15 ready-to-wear looks that complement the bespoke offering.
- **Design inspiration**: Mariano Fortuny for the women's collection, similar to the inspiration for the men's collections.
- **Brioni woman profile**: Independent, feminine, successful, conscious of her choices.
- **Key Pieces**: Business suit with a mannish soul, soft coats, shirt dress, knit twinset, short crop jacket, four-piece suit, technical jacket in superlight wool and silk.
- **Distinctive technique**: Double-splittable construction for greater fabric fluidity.
- **Materials**: Cashmere, cotton, refined wools, silk, crepe.
- **Color palette**: Earthy tones (vicuna, camel, coffee), plus ice, midnight blue and black.
Gucci: a challenge for Kering - 08/01/2024
- Gucci, Kering's flagship brand, guarantees two thirds of the group's profits.
- Kering acquired a 30% stake in Valentino.
- Kering also bought Creed perfumes.
- Balenciaga, one of Kering's brands, has been in difficulty since November 2022
Hugo Boss relaunches its brand. - 02/08/2023
- New annual sales target: 4.1 to 4.2 billion euros (previously forecast at around 4 billion euros)
- New operating profit target for 2023: 400 to 420 million euros (previous range was 10% to 20%)
Frédéric Rensonnet focuses on made-to-measure at Les Nouveaux Ateliers - 14/05/2023
- Record year 2023 with 300,000 weddings expected
- Sixth Les Nouveaux Ateliers boutique opens in Paris
- Business suits represent 70% of Les Nouveaux Ateliers activity
- 20 employees at Les Nouveaux Ateliers
- 30% growth forecast for 2023, similar to the previous year
- Relocation of garment manufacturing from China to Portugal
- Reduction in number of sales outlets from 27
- 3D measuring cabin integrated into sales outlets
- Objective of becoming the leading national player in made-to-measure within three years.
The new workshops: Frédéric Rensonnet believes in made-to-measure clothing - 13/05/2023
- Number of unions expected in 2023: 300,000.
- Share of the business suit market in the company's activity: 70%.
- Number of employees: 20.
- Opening of a sixth boutique in Paris.
- Choice of over 3,000 flannels, cashmeres, linens and silks.
- Expected growth by 2023: 30%.
- Company founded in 2011.
Kering announces the creation of a Beauty division - 04/02/2023
- Beauty Division to develop cosmetics and perfumes, a "strategic" sector for the Group
- The creation of Kering Beauté will enable the Bottega Veneta, Balenciaga, Alexander McQueen, Pomellato and Qeelin brands to expand in the beauty sector.
- This division does not include the Gucci brand or Yves Saint Laurent (YSL).
- The license for Gucci's beauty activities is held by the American group Coty "for at least five years".
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the custom-made suit market | France
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