Summary of our market study

The second-hand market for luxury watches in France is estimated at between 200 and 280 million euros

The French watch market fluctuates between 1.5 and 1.8 billion euros depending on the year.

The global luxury watch market is valued at over $24 billion, with an annual growth rate in excess of 8%.

Traditional watchmakers such as Rolex have entered the certified pre-owned segment to compete with online platforms such as Chrono24.

The luxury segment represents around 1% by volume, but commands around 42% by market value.

A significant proportion of demand comes from collectors and watch enthusiasts who frequent auction houses.

The digitization of sales has played an important role in the accessibility of pre-owned luxury watches.

Players in the luxury watch market

  • LVMH , TAG Heuer, Hublot and Zenith brands
  • Richemont, Cartier, IWC Schaffhausen and Panerai brands
  • Watchfinder (Griuoe richemont) specialist in certified pre-owned watches.
  • Swatch Group, Omega, Longines and Breguet brands.
  • Platforms such as Chrono24 and eBay sell luxury watches
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Summary and extracts

1 Market overview

1.1 Definition and scope of the study

In this study, we focus on the second-hand watch market, also known as the secondary or resale market, in France. We focus solely on the second-hand market for luxury watches, as this alone accounts for 80% of the global market.

Confinement in 2020 has led buyers to consume less on a daily basis, and to turn to the purchase of safe-haven assets such as pre-owned luxury watches and gold. Although the prices of the fifty best-selling luxury watches fell by 18% between May and October 2022, the pre-owned watch market will continue to grow, increasing by 75% between now and 2030.

In France, this market is also experiencing strong growth. According to a leading second-hand watch sales site, 1.7 million searches were made by the French in 2022 on just five vintage luxury watches (Submariner by Rolex, Cosmograph Daytona by Audemar Piguet, ...). This growth is in line with an increasingly popular second-hand market, especially among the under-40s.

The changing profiles of buyers, from passionate collectors to young people wishing to own second-hand goods, has modified the places where these goods are sold, with sales becoming increasingly digitalized. As a result, specialized websites will continue to expand. Luxury brands wishing to control the quality of their products on this second-hand market are also starting to offer this service directly in their points of sale. Rolex, for example, has been experimenting with this new service since December 2022 in six countries, and is due to extend it to all its points of sale in 2023.

1.2 A global market with the wind in its sails

The market for pre-owned watches has grown considerably in recent years. More specifically, the pre-owned luxury watch segment is booming and helping to boost the market. In addition, the arrival of reconditioned connected watches has also led to renewed interest in the sector, which is diversifying and catering to an increasingly ...

1.4 The domestic market

The following graph illustrates the evolution of the market value of the watch industry in France between **** and ****. It shows that the market is growing, rising from *.*** billion euros in **** to *.*** billion euros in ****. The French watch market has therefore still not recovered its **** level of *.*** billion euros. *.* million watches were ...

2 Demand analysis

2.1 Demand driven by younger generations

In France, * out of ** people regularly wear a watch on their wrist. The penetration rate of this fashion accessory is therefore among the highest. Nevertheless, the diversity of watches on offer leads to a multitude of practices concerning their use. For many people, the watch is an aesthetic accessory. It is ...

2.2 Environmental concerns and declining purchasing power drive second-hand boom

The second-hand market has been booming in recent years. In fact, the reasons for turning to second-hand and reconditioned products are multiplying, leading to an increase in demand. While the main criterion remains the lower price (***), other factors are also driving people to opt for second-hand products. The opportunity to own ...

2.3 Collectors and auction houses, historical claimants

Watch collectors and auction houses in search of rare gems are two categories that fuel the demand for pre-owned watches. Indeed, watches are "classic" items in French collections, due to the variety of vintage models and the age of the discipline. In ****, they will be the eighth most collectible category, with ...

2.4 Counterfeiting, a deterrent to second-hand purchases

Many consumers refrain from making second-hand purchases because of the risk of counterfeiting. This phenomenon is particularly marked in the luxury sector, where counterfeits are very numerous and very difficult to detect. Rolex counterfeits are among the most numerous, and this is one of the reasons why the brand has launched ...

2.6 Audience analysis

Audience breakdown by age France, ****, %, %, %, %, %, %, %, %, %, %, %, % Source: ****

audience analysis for the market studied shows a predominance of men, with **.**% of the total. Women represent **.**% of the total audience. This overall trend indicates a clear inclination towards a predominantly male audience in the market studied.Analysis of the data shows that the audience ...

3 Market structure

3.1 Watchmakers face competition from new players

While historic watchmakers and major luxury houses reign supreme on the new watch market, the pre-owned market is much more fragmented, involving a multitude of players. These include specialist second-hand retailers, digital and reconditioning platforms, as well as private individuals.

Specialized distributors

Several companies specialize in the sale of pre-owned and ...

3.2 The rise of digital platforms, a lever for the second-hand market

Although watchmakers seem to have understood the importance of the second-hand market, they have been overtaken by online platforms and specialist retailers, who still account for the vast majority of sales today. Since the ****s, online sales sites have taken over the market, encouraging online purchases.

Which channel do you prefer ...

3.3 Luxury watch auctions

Like many other luxury goods, watches are considered a good investment in times of uncertainty. For example, watch auctions exploded during the pandemic. In ****, the Drouot auction house recorded sales of *,*** million euros in the Art & Collectibles category, up +**.*% on ****. In ****, growth slowed but maintained an interesting pace for the sector: ...

4 Offer analysis

4.1 Typology of pre-owned watches

There are different types of watches, which can be categorized as follows:

Mechanical watches : Automatic watches : Quartz watches : Radio-controlled watches : Connected watches :

The vast majority of second-hand watches are luxury watches. So, let's take a look at the different categories of luxury watches. These are very diverse, but we can draw ...

4.2 The paradox of second-hand prices

Like many other products, second-hand watches have seen a sharp rise in prices since the beginning of ****, due to the energy crisis and the resulting inflationary context. The Subdial** price index is of particular interest. This index groups together the top ** used models traded on the market, representing **% of total expenditure. ...

4.3 The democratization of refurbished connected watches

Connected watches have been booming for several years now. They offer undeniable advantages in terms of communication, information sharing and convenience. Shortly after the democratization of this new accessory, a second market emerged: that of refurbished watches. As with smartphones, connected watches are not always affordable, so many potential consumers are ...

5 Regulations

5.1 Watch market regulations

Watchmaking companies are affected by numerous regulations concerning the following products:

Nickel: restrictions on items in direct and prolonged contact with the skin. Cadmium: restrictions in metal parts of articles. Lead: restrictions in accessible parts of watches. PAHs: restrictions in plastic materials (***). Chrome VI: restrictions in leather (***).

In addition, the use ...

5.2 Regulatory framework for counterfeiting

Luxury watches are particularly affected by counterfeiting and smuggling. The Direction Générale de la Concurrence, de la Consommation et de la Répression des Fraudes(***) is the authority in charge of fighting these frauds, as specified in the Code de la Propriété Intellectuelle and article L. ***-**. * of ...

6 Positioning the players

6.1 Segmentation

  • Richemont Group
  • Swatch Group
  • Rolex
  • Patek Philippe
  • Audemars Piguet
  • eBay
  • Back Market
  • Drouot L’Hotel
  • Interenchères

List of charts presented in this market study

  • Luxury watch market
  • The French watch market
  • How likely is it that you will buy a second-hand luxury wristwatch in the next 12 months?
  • Do you plan to buy a second-hand watch in the next 12 months?
  • If you're thinking of buying a watch in the next 12 months, what's your goal?
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Latest news

Rolex, the Swiss ogre of luxury watches - 20/08/2024
  • - Annual production: Over 1.2 million units per year.
  • - One in three luxury watches sold is a Rolex.
  • - World's leading watch brand since the early 1970s.
  • - Opening of a subsidiary in Hong Kong in 1967.
  • - In ten years, Rolex has doubled in size.
  • - Share of sales in the luxury sector: Over 30% of sales of high-end Swiss dials.
  • - The watch resale market is worth 25 billion euros, with Rolex as a key reference.
Back Market launches a recycling service for old smartphones with Ecosystem - 18/06/2024
  • - 700 smartphones collected in France in one month.
  • - Partnership with Ecosystem.
  • - 73 processing centers throughout France.
Betakron, the French subsidiary of Patek Philippe, doubles its production area - 31/05/2024
  • patek Phimippe founded in 1839 and owned by the Stern family since 1932,
  • Production of 72,000 watches each year.
  • betakron, a 100% subsidiary of the Swiss watchmaker
  • Subcontractor to the luxury watchmaking industry
  • 190 employees in 2024
  • only French manufacturing subsidiary of Patek Philippe
  • the seven other subsidiaries are located in Switzerland
Refurbished phones : Back Market aims for profitability in 2024 - 30/05/2024
  • Business volume of 2.2 billion euros by 2023, up 32%.
  • Back Market acts as an intermediary between consumers and 1,700 reconditioners.
  • Sales (margin on transactions) jump 45% to 320 million.
  • 4.5 million customers by 2023, including 2 million in France
  • 6.3 million orders, 60% of them smartphones.
  • By 2022, Back Market had achieved sales of 200 million euros.
  • Operates in 18 countries (% of sales), the USA, Germany, Spain and the UK.
  • agreement with Bouygues Telecom
  • According to Fevade, the French e-merchants' union, second-hand goods account for 9% of French people's online purchases

Nicolas Bos, a Frenchman at the helm of Swiss luxury giant Richemont - 28/05/2024
  • - Record sales of 20.6 billion euros.
  • - Sales growth in Asia-Pacific: +4% at actual exchange rates; +10% at constant exchange rates.
  • - Jewelry sales growth: +6% at actual exchange rates.
  • - Decline in sales in specialized watchmaking: -3% at actual exchange rates.
  • - Sales decline in other activities: -2% at actual exchange rates.
Luxury goods: in good shape, Richemont chooses a new CEO - 20/05/2024
  • - Richemont sales: 20.6 billion euros, up 3% year-on-year.
  • - Richemont net profit: 2.3 billion euros
  • - Jewelry sales rose by 6% to 14.2 billion euros, representing 69% of total sales.
  • - Watch sales fell by 3% to 3.7 billion euros.
  • - Richemont acquired the Milanese brand Vhernier, its first acquisition since Buccellati in 2019.

Companies quoted in this study

This study contains a complete overview of the companies in the market, with the latest figures and news for each company. :

Richemont Group
Swatch Group
Rolex
Patek Philippe
Audemars Piguet
eBay
Back Market
Drouot L’Hotel
Interenchères

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